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Monthly Archives: December 2010

N.O. Meets Texas, By Way of Puerto Rico

I’ve been sampling some of the new menu items at Bistro Alex in the Hotel Sorella at City Centre, and that means first and foremost sampling some of the new bar foods in the just-opened Bistro Bar. If you’re tired of some of the stuff that passes for bar food around town, check out the shrimp and tasso “pinchos” pictured above. Cajun Meets Puerto Rican on these lovely skewers, thanks to executive chef Juan Carlos Gonzalez - who hails from the Caribbean island, country, state or whatever, but honed his craft during 10 years with the Brennan family in New Orleans.

All the same, there’s nothing Puerto Rican (except the rum, of course) about Bistro Alex’s wild spin on a true Brennan family classic. They’ve been flaming bananas Foster in rum at Brennan’s in the French Quarter and Commander’s Palace in the Garden District something like forever. But never before, to my knowledge, has anybody dreamed up bananas Foster with waffles. An idea whose time has come? We devour, you decide!

New Creations at City Centre’s Ra Sushi

Clearly, one of the hardest and most unpleasant parts of this job is being invited to taste everybody’s new dishes. Well, it’s only really hard or unpleasant - as at Ra Sushi, as at City Centre - when you really love their old dishes. We were, however, wildly impressed with most of what we sampled yesterday, including no fewer than four new rolls: the tropical, the vegetable tempura and the Pacific. The new fave, though, was the so-punctuated “Ra”ckin Roll, with kani kama crab and cream cheese, plus shrimp in a creamy ginger teriyaki sauce.

In a world of braised beef short ribs and cheese grits, we seldom suffer from anything resembling Salad Lust. So it was a pleasure to meet a salad we’d actually bother lusting after. This is called the Otoko Salad and can be ordered with chicken or beef. No question which we prefer on that score. Believe it or not, the dressing is not only tasty but interesting, with spicy yuzu over red and green peppers, caramelized onions and asparagus, plus rice wine vinaigrette over the crisp greens. And yes, those are fried ramen noodles. To paraphrase Robert Duvall, I love the smell of ramen in the morning. It smells like… college!

And with all this heady food talk, much of it shared with Ra manager Gavin Bouey (who just transferred here from the sushi concept’s Las Vegas operation), it’s easy to forget the new cocktails. I think we tried them all, darn it. These include several described as “skinny,” a.k.a. less fattening, plus this beauty combining rum and strawberry. Others among the new cocktails, like the citrusy spin on a margarita, are less sweet. This one is perfect for those who remember the sweet Asian drinks of yore, the kind you might share from a flaming bowl. For color and great taste, we’ll call it the Cocktail for Those Suffering from Mad Men Syndrome.

La Gloria and Java Pura on Houston DM

HOUSTON Saturdays and Sundays 4-5 p.m., NewsRadio 740 KTRH

A Presentation of Spec’s Wines, Spirits & Finer Foods

SATURDAY: Whatever your feelings about pleasure vs. food safety, it’s impossible to ignore the richness of regional dishes served all over Mexico – by vendors right on the streets. What better Texas city could there be than San Antonio to give the world La Gloria, a restaurant devoted to the wonderful street foods chef-owner Johnny Rodriguez found traveling Mexico’s highways and byways. We taste and chat with Chef Johnny about La Gloria. We also sit down with wine buyer extraordinaire Bear Dalton of Spec’s for a tasting of champagnes plus a couple of other sparkling wines that should add bubbles to our holidays.

SUNDAY: There’s nothing quite like a good cup of coffee, something Ken Palmer has learned as a master roaster from Hawaii to Ethiopia, from Oregon to Texas. Ken takes us through the custom roasting process – with time out for an official (and noisy) “cupping – at a coffee housed called Java Pura. In our Grape & Grain segment, we do something we’ve been wanting to do a very long time – sit down with beer buyer Justin Cody of Spec’s for a festive tasting of brews for the holidays. If the best you’ve done so far as beer with the word “Lite” in its name, you’ll be amazing at how different from each other beers can actually be.

La Gloria on Saturday’s Austin DM

AUSTIN Saturdays 10-11 a.m., Talk 1370

A Presentation of Spec’s Wines, Spirits & Finer Foods

Whatever your feelings about pleasure vs. food safety, it’s impossible to ignore the richness of regional dishes served all over Mexico – by vendors right on the streets. What better Texas city could there be than San Antonio to give the world La Gloria, a restaurant devoted to the wonderful street foods chef-owner Johnny Rodriguez found traveling Mexico’s highways and byways. We taste and chat with Chef Johnny about La Gloria.

We also sit down with wine buyer extraordinaire Bear Dalton of Spec’s for a tasting of champagnes plus a couple of other sparkling wines that should add bubbles to our holidays.

Recipe for Holiday Beef Wellington

When fellow writer Holly Beretto asked me how to make Beef Wellington to wow her crowd at Christmas, I decided to defer to a master. We went to visit Chef David Denis at Le Mistral, who patiently walked us through this recipe in his just-published cookbook, “Energy Cuisine.”

1 (6-pound) center-cut beef tenderloin

1 pound prepared puff pastry

1 cup dried morels or other mushrooms

1 egg yolk, beaten

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

½ teaspoon kosher salt

1 pinch black pepper

Sauce:

1 cup dried morel mushrooms

¼ cup cognac

1 cup veal stock

1 cup heavy cream

1 tablespoon chopped shallots

1 teaspoon unsalted butter

½ teaspoon kosher salt

1 pinch white pepper

Preheat oven to 350 F. Rehydrate the morels or other dried mushrooms in a bowl of water for about 10 minutes, then drain them. Salt and pepper the tenderloin. Pan sear the tenderloin, then let cool. Chop the morels or other mushrooms. Melt the butter in a sauté pan and sauté the morels over low heat until all the water cooks out. Season with salt and pepper. Let cool.

Lay down the puff pastry, about ½” thick. Put the mushroom “duxelle” on top of the puff pastry, place the tenderloin on top of the duxelle and roll the pastry around it. Brush the pastry with the egg yolk. Place the Wellington into the preheated oven and bake until the inside meat temperature reach 125 F. Take the Wellington out of the oven and let it rest for 10 minutes before slicing.

Meanwhile, prepare the sauce. Saute the morels and shallots in butter till they turn golden. Carefully flambe with Cognac and cook until dry. Add veal stock, reducing by ½. Add cream, then reduce by 2/3. Season with salt and pepper. Serves slices of tenderloin with morel sauce spooned over the top. Serves 4.

New Eddie V’s on Houston DM

HOUSTON Saturdays and Sundays 4-5 p.m., NewsRadio 740 KTRH

A Presentation of Spec’s Wines, Spirits & Finer Foods

We have no Saturday show in Houston today, thanks to some A&M hoops, but we have a super-lively show on Sunday. We stop in for a meal at the hip new Eddie V’s, now packing them in like there’s no tomorrow at the West Ave development. If you’ve been to Eddie V’s before – a possibility since the concept was born in Austin and later come to West Houston at City Centre, you are still in for a few big surprises. We think you’ll especially like the new way the energy of the bar flows outward into the dining room. Even better, in our Grape & Grain segment, we taste and talk about the Italian wines of Zonin – with Francesco Zonin himself.

New Braunfels on Austin DM

AUSTIN Saturdays 10-11 a.m., Talk 1370

A Presentation of Spec’s Wines, Spirits & Finer Foods

Have you been to New Braunfels lately. If you don’t think there’s some cool stuff going on with food and wine there, then you probably haven’t been recent enough. Of course, we always have to make our pilgrimage to the Huisache Grill and Wine Bar for a chat with the owners and more than a few opportunities to be overserved. But these days in NB, the saga may begin at Huisache but doesn’t end there. We also pay a nifty visit to the not-quite-town of Gruene (pronounced “green”), a country music destination to be sure but also the lovely riverside setting of the Gruene Mansion Inn. The place is the perfect holiday getaway.

Marfa House: A Work in Progress

Once upon a time, there was this little house in Marfa. There wasn’t much to it, but it looked pretty cool in the daytime.

And even cooler at night.

But… to paint the plywood floor upstairs, first we had to prime.

And only then could the paint go on…

And to build a deck, first we had to sledgehammer a stretch of concrete slab into submission. This is all that was left after carting off the big, heavy pieces. Kids, don’t try this at home. Really.

After that you need to build a frame, one that’s hopefully both level and squared at the corners.

Then you simply cover that lovely frame with treated lumber and pose for your victory portrait.

Recipe for Holiday Cornish Hens

2 large Cornish game hens, thawed if frozen

1 large onion, with skins, roughly chopped

2 ribs celery, with leaves, roughly chopped

2 carrots, roughly chopped

Water

1/2 cup dry white wine

3 bay leaves

2 tablespoons plus 1 tablespoon Creole seasoning

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup long-grain white rice

1 cup wild rice

2 tablespoons butter

Chopped green onions for garnish

Place hens, onion, celery and carrots in a soup or stock pot with enough water to cover. Add the white wine, bay leaves and seasoning. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat and let simmer until the hens start to turn a little brown, about 30 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 350 degrees. When the hens are light brown, transfer them to a large roasting pan. Lightly coat with the olive oil and sprinkle with the Creole seasoning. Place in the oven and roast until golden brown, 25-30 minutes.

Meanwhile, strain the stock left from the hens. Measure 3 ½ cups of the liquid (adding water or chicken broth if needed) into a pot with a lid and stir in the white rice and wild rice. Add the butter. Bring the mixture to a boil, reduce heat and cover. Simmer until both rices are cooked through, the wild a bit chewer than the white, about 25 minutes. Fluff with a fork. Season to taste with Creole seasoning, or salt and pepper. When the hens are golden brown, remove them and cover the bottom of the pan with the rice. Set the hens on top of the rice and garnish with the green onions. Return pan to oven briefly to reheat rice, if necessary. Cut the hens in half lengthwise and serve with rice mixture. Serves 4.

Stephan Pyles, Holiday Wines on Houston’s DM

HOUSTON Saturdays and Sundays 4-5 p.m., NewsRadio 740 KTRH

A Presentation of Spec’s Wines, Spirits & Finer Foods

SATURDAY: Today we’re in Dallas, visiting the other Texas restaurant (along with Haven in Houston) chosen as one of the year’s best new places by Esquire magazine. It’s Samar, created by famous Chef Stephan Pyles as an homage to the cuisines of the ancient spice routes. That means there are virtually three menus in one: Indian, Middle Eastern/Mediterranean, and Spanish with its strong Moorish influence. Still, you don’t need to look anything up in a history book to understand Samar. You can just know that it’s delicious. Also, we head over to Spec’s for our Grape & Grain tasting segment, looking into some very special wines for the holiday season with wine buyer Collin Williams.

SUNDAY: In this extra-special holiday edition, we sit down with the GM and the chef at Morton’s the Steakhouse – the location on McKinney in downtown Houston – to talk about things instore for us in the festive weeks ahead. That means special hours of opening for lunch, plenty of parties in the eatery’s three private dining room – and an amazing holiday drink given bubbles by prosecco. We definitely approve. For our Grape and Grain segment, we hit the road (not just any old road but Highway 29 in Napa Valley) for a chat with winemaker Laurie Hooks about the historic property called Beringer.

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