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Monthly Archives: May 2010

Chef Lou Lambert on DM in Houston

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Lou Lambert, now of Austin and Fort Worth

HOUSTON: Saturdays and Sundays 4-5 p.m. on NewsRadio 740 KTRH

SATURDAY: Most Texas chefs get to be that way by way of Houston, Austin or Dallas, or at least by way of Waxahatchie; but Clive Berkman got to be a Texas chef by way of Johannesburg, London, New York and Miami. Today, he tours the Lone Star State tirelessly cooking from and promoting his cookbook that tells the story of it all, “Creating Empty Bottle Moments.” We sit down for a lively lunch of Italian comfort food at Sorrento to hear the story behind each recipe. And in our Grape & Grain tasting segment, we get to put on our old, weathered coonskin cap from childhood. Actually, and happily, that thing is long gone. But we do get to do something way better. We taste the wines of Fess Parker from Santa Barbara County with the winemaker who made them – and raise a toast to the recently-passed actor who was an entrepreneurial American original.

SUNDAY: Sometimes, when you’re way out in Far West Texas, you meet people you didn’t expect to meet. That happened recently when we ran into Chef Lou Lambert in Marfa, where he was conducting a culinary weekend for folks from Dallas and Fort Worth. Between teaching a cooking class at lunch and getting busy on dinner, Lambert sits down to talk about his food childhood on West Texas ranch and his restaurants in Austin and now Fort Worth. He’s also doing food and drink with his sister, Liz Lambert, for her hip hotel properties in Austin and San Antonio. In today’s Grape & Grain tasting segment, we explore mescal – the large family of heavy-duty Mexican spirits of which tequila is one regional brand. Yes, mescal is the stuff with the worm at the bottom of the bottle – except that the guy we taste with puts a real (though definitely no-longer-alive) scorpion at the bottom of his. At least, we’re told, the scorpion died happy!

Fess Parker Wines on DM in Austin

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AUSTIN: Saturdays 10-11 a.m. on Talk 1370

Most Texas chefs get to be that way by way of Austin, Houston or Dallas, or at least by way of Waxahatchie; but Clive Berkman got to be a Texas chef by way of Johannesburg, London and Miami. Today, he tours the Lone Star State tirelessly cooking from and promoting his cookbook that tells the story of it all, “Creating Empty Bottle Moments.” We sit down for a lively lunch of Italian comfort food at Sorrento in Houston to hear the story behind each recipe.

And in our Grape & Grain tasting segment, we get to put on our old, weathered coonskin cap from childhood. Actually, happily, that thing is long gone. But we do get to do something way better. We taste the wines of Fess Parker from Santa Barbara County with the winemaker who made them – and raise a toast to the recently-passed actor who was an entrepreneurial American original.

Recipe for Clive Berkman’s Chicken Piccata

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¼ cup clarified butter

3 garlic cloves

8 (8-ounce) chicken breasts, pounded very thin

Seasoned flour

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 cup white wine

¼ cup chicken stock

1 chopped shallot

1 teaspoon chopped garlic

3 parsley stalks

4 basil leaves

Zest of 1 lemon

½ pound unsalted butter

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

1 tablespoon capers

1teaspoon lemon Juice

Preheat oven to 350ºF. Season the chicken breasts with salt, pepper olive oil. Allow to sit at room temperature for 1 hour. Pass lightly through seasoned flour dust and saute on each side until golden brown. Set in oven until sauce is ready. Reduce wine, stock and herbs on medium heat until it is ¼ cup. Remove from stove and whisk in butter 1 tablespoon at a time. Once all butter has been added, strain and add chopped parsley, capers and lemon juice to taste. Transfer chicken breasts to the sauce and bring to a quick boil. Serve immediately or keep warm in the sauce. Serves 8

Quattro and Italian Expo on Houston DM

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Quattro at the Four Season

HOUSTON: Saturdays and Sundays 4-5 p.m. on News Radio 740 KTRH

SATURDAY: We celebrate the Italian Expo, going on this weekend at the George R. Brown, with a visit from our amici from Quattro at the Four Seasons. Though known for several years as an Italian restaurant, the place has recently taken on some new personnel and started steering more of an enoteca tack – a wine bar with excellent food. Also on today’s show, we’ll check in by phone with the folks doing the New Orleans Wine and Food Experience over Memorial Day Weekend. And we’ll get superstar chef John Besh on the line, to talk about his upcoming dinner in New Orleans with Paula Deen, to help Gulf fishermen devastated by the ongoing oil spill.

SUNDAY: This week we check out a Houston restaurant well worth the drive from just about anywhere – the sentimental favorite Brennan’s, only returned from the dead after the fire ignited during the long, dark night of Hurricane Ike. The place is 70-80 percent the same as it used to be, but it feels (in the best sense) like a whole new restaurant. We chat with new executive chef Danny Trace in the glassed-in Kitchen Table, as all the cooks and knives fly by. And… as part of the same excursion, in our Grape & Grain segment we discuss the State of the Cocktail with the guy who knows best, “King Cocktail” himself, Dale DeGroff. Dale has a new book that’ll tell us all about it.

‘King Cocktail’ Dale DeGroff on Austin’s DM

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Dale DeGroff fixing us a cocktail

AUSTIN: Saturday’s 10-11 a.m. on Talk 1370

Basing our show in Houston this week, we check out a restaurant well worth the drive from Austin – the sentimental favorite Brennan’s, only returned from the dead after the fire ignited during the long, dark night of Hurricane Ike. The place is 70-80 percent the same as it used to be, but it feels (in the best sense) like a whole new restaurant. We chat with new executive chef Danny Trace in the glassed-in Kitchen Table, as all the cooks and knives fly by. And… as part of the same excursion, in our Grape & Grain segment we discuss the State of the Cocktail with the guy who knows best, “King Cocktail” himself, Dale DeGroff. Dale has a new book that’ll tell us all about it.

The Marfa Shadows Texas Book Tour

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I’ll need to rest after this thing…

May 12: Midland signing at CAF Airpower Museum

May 14-17: Marfa media tour

May 20: Special tasting and signing, Kay Aplin’s home in Lake Jackson

May 21: Book signing talk for Breakfast Club, St. Regis Hotel in Houston

June 10: Kerrville signing with Mike Marvins, Museum of Western Art

June 11: San Antonio signing at Twig Bookstore

June 17: Woodlands signing as part of Wine Week’s Wine Walk at Market Street

June 19: Laredo signing for new HEB store (tentative)

June 22: Central Market cooking class Houston

June 23: Central Market cooking class San Antonio

June 24: Central Market cooking class Dallas

June 25: Central Market cooking class Fort Worth

June 26: Central Market cooking class Plano

June 27: Central Market cooking class Austin

July 3-4: Lake Austin Spa cooking class over holiday weekend

Recipe for Hill Country Peach-Biscotti Crumble

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Last week, I settled behind the signing table at the CAF Airpower Museum in Midland with my novel MARFA SHADOWS. With a generous assist from Brenda Kissko of the Midland Convention and Visitors Bureau and Autumn Esparza of the CAF (in photo below), we served Chef Brett’s famous white bean chili Frito pie and his Hill Country peach-biscotti crumble. Here’s the dessert recipe:

4-5 fresh Texas peaches, peeled, pitted and sliced

2 tablespoons plus 1 tablespoon unsalted butter

2 tablespoons brown sugar

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ cup rum

8 biscotti, broken into chunks

I cup whipping cream

2 tablespoons powdered sugar

2 tablespoon Texas muscat canelli dessert wine

Combine the sliced peaches with 2 tablespoons butter, brown sugar and cinnamon in a sauté pan and stir over medium heat until the peaches start to soften, 4-5 minutes. Flame the peaches with the rum. When the alcohol has burned off, pour the peaches into a casserole dish with the broken-up biscotti and combine, letting the biscotti soak up the peach liquid. Press down lightly in the casserole and dot with pieces of the remaining butter. Set in a preheated 350-degree oven and bake until golden on top, about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, using a chilled whisk in a chilled stainless steel mixing bowl, beat the cream with the sugar and wine until peaks form. To serve, spoon warm peach crumble onto dessert plates and top with chilled whipped cream. Serves 6-8.

Evangeline Cafe on Austin DM

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AUSTIN: Saturday May 15, 10-11 a.m. on Talk 1370

It’s pretty easy for Louisiana flavors to find their way across the Sabine as far as Beaumont and Port Arthur – or even as far as Houston, thanks to the long population interplay over the subject of oil. But it takes guts to open an authentic Louisiana Cajun restaurant in Austin. With his flowing locks and big mustache, chef-owner Curtis Clarke looks like he hails from Austin 30 years old – his café’s motto, in fact, is “Old Austin Didn’t Die… It Just Moved South.” Actually, though, he’s from southwest Louisiana, not too far on the other side of the Sabine. And to taste his gumbo, etouffee, boudin, blackened redfish and other delights, you’d swear (with a nod to Beaumont’s Janis Joplin) that a piece of his heart still lives there.

Also today, in our Grape and Grain segment, we sit down for a tasting with Joan Smith. She and her husband Bill, under the label WH Smith, are sending growing, making and forth some of the nicest pinot noirs the entire Sonoma Valley has to offer. And that’s saying, well, a mouthful.

Recipe for Fried Catfish Po-Boy

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Peanut oil for frying

1 stick unsalted butter

2 garlic cloves, smashed

2 French bread baguettes

6 (6-ounce) farm-raised catfish fillets

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 cup milk

1 large egg

1 cup yellow corn meal

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1/8 teaspoon ground red pepper

Sliced pickles

2 cups prepared coleslaw

Louisiana hot pepper sauce

Lemon wedges

Pour about 3 inches of oil in a deep fryer or large, heavy pot and heat to 375 degrees F. Preheat the oven to 250 degrees F. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the smashed garlic and swirl the pot around to infuse the garlic flavor into the butter. Slice the French bread in 1/2 lengthwise and brush the top and insides with the garlic butter. Stick the bread in the oven for 5 minutes to warm it through.

Season both sides of the catfish fillets with a fair amount of salt and pepper. In a wide bowl, mix the milk and egg together, season with salt and pepper. Mix the cornmeal, flour, cayenne, salt and pepper in a pie dish using a fork. Dip the catfish in the wet batter, then dredge in the dry; being sure to cover the fillets completely. Gently drop the fish in the hot oil in batches so the pan is not overcrowded. Fry the fillets for 3 minutes and then drain on a platter lined with paper towels; sprinkle with salt while they are still hot. To assemble the po-boy, put the pickles across the bottom 1/2 of the bread, lay the fried catfish on top. Spoon a small mound of slaw on top of the catfish and close up the sandwich with the top 1/2 of the bread. Cut into portions and serve immediately with hot sauce and lemon on the side. Serves 6-8.

Born-Again Brennan’s on Houston DM

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HOUSTON Saturdays and Sundays 4-5 p.m. on News Radio 740 KTRH

SATURDAY: Peter May lives very close to the French wine region of Cahors – famous for its vintages so dark they’re down as “black wine.” But even though he’s set at least one book in Cahors, Peter doesn’t so much make us taste wine as make us lose sleep. The native of Scotland, who still turns up in kilts, writes several series of mystery and crime novels, and he’ll be signing them this afternoon right after the show at Houston’s own Murder by the Book. From their website and a name linking them to 1940s public transport in Los Angeles, you’d almost think Red Car writes mysteries too. But Red Car makes wines in Santa Maria a bit up from LA along the California Coast. We’re looking forward to our conversation and our first-ever tasting of Red Car.

SUNDAY: Sunday is cocktail time on Delicious Mischief, or at least it is this week. We sit down at the Kitchen Table at Brennan’s of Houston with new executive chef Danny Trace. And we hear what he thinks about pairing New Orleans-inspired food with cocktails in a setting that just reopened after being knocked down but not out by Hurricane Ike. And in the same walls, we chat about booze with King Cocktail himself, famous mixologist Dale DeGroff. From his early days making drinks in Manhattan to his current life writing books, teaching seminars and fronting the Museum of the American Cocktail (in New Orleans, of course), Dale DeGroff is the man you need to see about a stiff drink.

Photo: The new dining room ar post-Ike Brennan’s of Houston.

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